The suburban stove heating has features that should be taken into account when designing and building. Often it all comes down to attempts to reduce the total cost and speed up the heating of the room when resuming operation after a long break. Therefore, episodic, intermittent work is an almost constant companion of a country stove. That is, it is important to find a design that combines low thermal inertia, high heat capacity and maximum versatility of application — rarely do country stoves work only as heating: usually the owners try to “stick” a stove, fireplace or some other functional bonus to them.
Layout difficulties: proportions and calculations
Not all suburban developers realize how important it is to choose an oven that can maintain a comfortable temperature in the house. It seems to many that it is enough to warm up the room a little during the off-season. And in winter, do not visit the cottage at all. But cost savings. In fact, it turns out that sooner or later there is a need to heat a house in the dead of winter, but the resources for this are not provided by the initial project.
Attempts to manage with cash resources always lead to one result — overheating of the furnace and cracking of the masonry. Therefore, it is better to design something more serious for a cottage or a country house, allowing year-round living. It’s just worth considering that a long break in work and freezing at home is possible. And from this follows the main requirement for a country stove: no circuits with water as a coolant and maximum attention to accelerating heating. A water circuit is a furnace that works like a boiler, such a hybrid of a boiler and a stove. Nonsense is rare. And as a furnace is not very, and in the boiler room as in a bath. The volume of the contour is large — it is dreary and troublesome to drain during a break.
We calculate the dimensions
It is worth noting that any oven will be useless if the room is not insulated and is blown from all sides. But even a well—insulated house allows heat loss, so the task of stove heating is not to melt the snow around the building, but to compensate for the loss of calories.
It is impossible to hope that by some clever engineering and technical solutions it will be possible to create some kind of compact structure, working on a periodic principle, capable of warming a concert hall. It is impossible to heat an apartment with one heated brick. A pallet of bricks will already warm the room. A hundred thousand and a half — an apartment. Unfortunately, stories about a small stove that emits heat at the level of a nuclear reactor are nothing more than a myth. No one has been able to deceive physics yet.
Therefore, the first point that cannot be avoided when designing furnace heating is the definition of heat loss at home. More precisely, the room (or several) that is planned to be heated to a comfortable level for living.
This technology is quite complex and takes into account a lot of factors: the design features of the house, the effectiveness of insulation of walls and ceilings, the quality of glazing. To facilitate the procedure, a serious amount of tabular data has been obtained for a long time, but still for home use this mechanics is unnecessarily cumbersome.
In practice, a simple simplified method based on averaged data is sufficient. For the calculation, it is enough to know the external dimensions of the room. A cubic meter of the volume of residential premises in winter loses an average of 21 kcal / hour. Therefore, it is enough to calculate the volume of the room in cubic meters and multiply the resulting figure by 21.
One subtlety: it is required to count the volume of the room along the outer perimeter. This will be the heat loss that needs to be compensated by furnace heating. The resulting figure is easy to translate into other units adopted in heating engineering. Everything is extremely simple: 1 kcal is equal to 4.19 kJ, and 1 kcal / h corresponds to 1.16 watts. If a purchased metal or stone furnace is installed, its capacity is usually indicated in the passport. Therefore, the rated power must correspond to or exceed the power losses.
For a brick kiln, an additional calculation will be required — quite simple:
- One square meter of the active surface of the furnace emits 300 kcal/hour. Therefore, we divide the heat loss of the room by 300 and get the area of the active surface of the furnace.
- If the height is taken as two meters, and the oven is square in plan, then it’s quite simple. Divide the resulting area by 8 (four walls plus height) and in the remainder we have the length of the furnace base. This is the size of the furnace required for heating with one daily furnace.
- If you plan to heat the oven twice — in the morning and in the evening — then this mode increases the heat transfer by 1.4 times. This can be used in the design, slightly reducing the dimensions of the furnace.
One more moment. For modern effective methods of insulation, the heat output of the furnace is somewhat excessive. But this can be considered a plus — the stock in such cases will not hurt. Moreover, if the heated room has at least two external walls, then it would be possible to throw a 20 percent reserve when calculating the heat loss of the room. If this is an entrance hall, where the door is often opened, then you can throw on all 50.
Choosing a place
The further question is where to put all this beauty. The oven is like a furniture set, which then cannot be rearranged. Therefore, the regular place should be determined immediately and as accurately as possible. The most logical (at first glance, an inexperienced person) place for an oven, as a fairly large piece of furniture, is somewhere in the corner – like a refrigerator. But the trouble is that in this case one or two walls of the furnace are excluded from the heating process.
It is curious that the Russian stove was placed in a corner or against one wall. Although there are firm assurances in the literature that the Russian oven occupied the center of the room, in practice such follies do not occur.
They tried to move the Russian oven somewhere to the periphery. But here a simple motivation is a very dimensional object. Therefore, if the furnace is placed closer to the wall, they tend to retreat from the wall by about a quarter of a meter — to ensure normal natural convection. Although in this case, the walls of the furnace facing the walls of the house lose about a fifth of the heat.
The ideal place for a stove is in the center of the room. Which is not always possible for reasons of ergonomics.
You can place the oven in the center of the room, separated by partitions. And then each of the rooms formed by partitions will be heated by one of the walls of the furnace. To equalize the heating, it is possible to provide the indents separating the furnace from the partitions with ventilation grilles. Two for each indentation — at the floor and ceiling.
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