Point of view — another nuance, which largely depends on the success of the frame. How to choose it correctly-this will be discussed today.
C the concept of “angle”, perhaps, everyone is familiar, even people who are very far from photography. This term refers to the location of the camera (and the photographer) in relation to the objects being shot. The relative position of objects and their geometric shape in the frame can vary significantly when you change the point from which you are shooting. A classic example is a cone: it looks like a circle from the top and a triangle from the side.
Important: when you change the shooting point, the angle changes especially strongly when the photographer is close to the subject.
As a rule, the most interesting pictures are obtained from photographers who are looking for unexpected shooting points. After all, most people who take pictures of nature, take pictures from the height of their growth, such a point of shooting is called normal. And-alas, too, as a rule-pictures are often taken without leaving the paths and paths laid for visitors.
Forget about stereotypes, look for the most interesting and unexpected angles, because non-standard shooting points allow you to get original pictures of even the most common garden scenes.
In addition, there are upper and lower shooting points. Which one to choose depends on the specific tasks of the photographer. For example, low flower arrangements or individual small plants are worst when shooting from above, when they merge with the background and with the soil. In addition, individual objects taken from above often seem less significant.
From the lower point, squatting down, and sometimes lying down, it is possible to make more expressive shots.
In the same way it is customary to shoot portraits of flowers: go down to their level, and they will look more weighty and expressive.
But when shooting a large space of a garden or vegetable garden, extensive flower beds, you can try to climb on a garden bench or retaining wall and photograph the object from the top point, getting a multi-dimensional, “three-dimensional” picture. For example, the same garden maze is interesting to remove only from the top point. If there is no high and reliable platform nearby — it does not matter, fix the camera on a tripod.
When choosing angles for shooting extended objects (mixborders, alleys), use a lateral, diagonal position compared to the front. The side point of shooting gives the plot dynamism, begins to” work ” linear perspective, which enlivens the picture and makes the frame deeper.
Frontal shooting in the center of an elongated object, on the contrary, often makes the picture flat. Experienced photographers are advised to pause for a second before pressing the camera’s shutter button. At this point, you need to imagine what you want to show in the picture, whether its main idea and mood will be clear, whether the frame is built correctly from the point of view of composition, foreshortening, whether its plot center is in the right place. Also check if there is something extra in the frame that interferes with the perception (for example, some branches or stems), and whether it is necessary to remove them by changing the shooting point.
Think about how you can enhance the image, make it more expressive and impressive. Sometimes a slight shift of the camera to the side can significantly change the result: perhaps by changing the “point of view”, you can fill the empty corners of the picture or let a little “air”into the frame. Practice photography as much as possible, and try to carry the camera with you. Shoot in gardens and parks, at exhibitions, in a room with different aperture values and focal lengths, choose different angles and shooting points, and you will gradually begin to notice how increasing interest in your pictures from others.
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