Rose is the most popular crop among gardeners. Even though our Queen of flowers has quite high individual requirements for growing conditions, she still does not lose popularity. Caring for roses involves a number of agricultural activities throughout the year: loosening, watering, fertilizing, mulching, pruning and shelter. But the last operation of the season should be prepared in advance. We will talk about this preparation in more detail.
Other things being equal in one region (weather and climate, soil type, water regime, varietal composition), the state of roses is very different from each other depending on how well we have tried to provide them with sufficient lighting, heat, soil fertility.
If at least one of the necessary conditions for their successful development is not met, the roses weaken, they quickly develop diseases of the leaf apparatus, rot. And weakened plants, as we know, very soon become a victim for sucking and gnawing pests. Fully restore forces after damage have such roses not is obtained.
If you strictly observe agricultural techniques, regularly carry out all care work, destroy weeds (mainly mechanically, because the rose reacts badly to herbicides), follow a balanced diet, agrochemical indicators of the soil-plants more resistant to attacks of pests and pathogens and recover faster after stressful factors.
Do I need a cover for roses?
Buying seedlings of roses, it is necessary to carefully read the description of the variety and focus on the indicator of the frost resistance zone. Plants can grow on the territory of the zone of frost and four more mild climatic conditions of the zones.
Some gardeners practice refusing to shelter roses for the winter, explaining their tactics by increasing their frost resistance on soils of high fertility. But even on the most nutritious soil in winters with a small snow cover, the bushes gradually freeze out.
Training programme
But before we shelter our beauties, we must prepare them for the winter. This “training” begins long before the full shelter:
1. At the beginning of August (the terms are calculated for the middle band), all fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers should be stopped, at the end of September-early October-all other fertilizing, as well as watering and loosening the soil. If at this time there is a lot of precipitation, it is necessary to protect the bushes from moisture-cover with waterproof material and make water drainage from the roots.
2. All sprouted weeds should be removed. These companions are dangerous: many of them become a place for overwintering pests and vectors of viral infections.
3. From-under bushes need to rake out all vegetable the remnants of. If for some reason this is not possible, it is necessary to treat them with one of the drugs-destructors that contribute to their decomposition and disinfection.
Such preparations contain useful microorganisms (fungi and bacteria), which quickly decompose the dead tissue of plant residues and are antagonists of pathogens of various plant diseases. These amazing little organisms can secrete up to 70 species of biologically active substances that are toxic to different types of pathogenic bacteria and fungi, but completely harmless to the root system of cultivated plants. Other bacteria that are part of these drugs, mobilize phosphorus and potassium, that is, translate it into an accessible form for plants.
4. At the beginning of autumn, the lower leaves of roses are removed to a height of 30 cm. the Stems are covered with special means, based on wax compounds or garden var. In extreme cases, for these purposes you can use a water emulsion.
5. Before pruning and sheltering plants, remove all leaf cover. If positive temperatures still hold, the buds should not be cut, each should simply be bent. Otherwise (when circumcised) may develop new buds that autumn we do not need.
6. Then carry out pruning. Bush roses are shortened to the height of insulation. Braided roses pinch at the point of growth. All shoots with suspicious manifestations (ulcers, etc.) are cut out. If new, non-woody shoots appear in front of the shelter, they should be cut along with the top of the stem on which they grow.
Speaking of pruning, it is impossible not to say about the disinfection of garden equipment, with which pruning is performed. Now on sale there is a large number of special preparations for disinfection. The choice is wide. If you can not buy these funds, then use at least alcohol, potassium permanganate (1% solution) or iodine (1-3% concentration).
7. After pruning roses treated with special drugs. In this step, we will elaborate. As a rule, treatment with 1% Bordeaux liquid or other copper-containing agent is recommended. However, if during the season repeated treatments with copper preparations were carried out or they were repeated earlier from year to year, the metal content in the soil of the rosary will be significantly exceeded, why the next year can manifest oppression of roses and pronounced symptoms of iron deficiency.
In addition, if the air temperature during processing is low enough, and the plants have not yet stopped growing, some eczemlyars may show strong phytotoxicity – a negative effect of the drug on the plant, which has various manifestations, in this case, a sharp wilting is possible.
8. If necessary, carried out in the autumn transplant the plants. But without good reasons, it does not need to be implemented.
9. Before the shelter dig up the earth and Spud bushes to a height of 30 cm, in braided roses, laid on the ground, cover the root with a layer of earth up to 50 cm.
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